Seda / Sertha གསེར་རྟ།

Sêrtar County (色达县), also known as Sertar or Seda, is located in the Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province, China. This remote, high-altitude county has become famous for the Larung Gar Buddhist Academy and its surrounding vibrant red monastic dwellings, as well as its deep-rooted Tibetan Buddhist culture. Sêrtar offers a fascinating spiritual and cultural experience in a breathtaking mountainous setting, drawing pilgrims, monks, and travelers alike.

Larung Gar Buddhist Academy

The Larung Gar Five Sciences Buddhist Academy, founded in 1980 by the Tibetan Lama Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok, is one of the largest and most influential centers for Tibetan Buddhism in the world.

Red Monastic Dwellings: The densely packed red wooden homes of monks and nuns create an iconic sight, covering the valley’s hillsides. These dwellings are organized by gender, with areas specifically for monks and others for nuns

Daily Rituals and Chanting: Visitors can witness monks and nuns engaging in daily chanting, meditation, and prayer sessions, offering a glimpse into monastic life.

Debate Sessions: The academy holds Tibetan Buddhist debate sessions, where monks engage in lively discussions on philosophical topics using animated gestures and expressions.

Stupas and Temples: Various temples and stupas are scattered around the academy, including the main prayer hall, which hosts significant ceremonies.

Sky Burial Sites

Sky burial is a traditional Tibetan funeral practice in which the deceased’s body is laid out in the open for birds of prey, a ritual symbolizing the cycle of life and the impermanence of existence.

Observation: While some areas are restricted, visitors are generally welcome to observe the rituals from a respectful distance if they follow local customs and show reverence.

Cultural Significance: Witnessing a sky burial offers a deep insight into Tibetan Buddhist beliefs about death, rebirth, and the cycle of karma.

Guidance by Local Monks: Often, monks or locals can provide context and explanations, helping visitors understand the spiritual meaning behind the ceremony.

Sêrtar Valley and Surrounding Scenery

Nestled within the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau, Sêrtar County offers stunning landscapes that are serene and expansive, ideal for hiking and reflection.

Scenic Hikes: The valley and surrounding hills provide opportunities for scenic hikes, with panoramic views of Larung Gar, expansive grasslands, and mountain vistas.

Photography: The striking contrast of red monastic dwellings against green hills or snow-capped mountains makes Sêrtar a photographer’s paradise, particularly at sunrise and sunset.

Wildlife and Flora: The high-altitude ecosystem supports unique Tibetan flora and fauna, including yaks, alpine plants, and migratory birds.

Monastic Debates and Ceremonies

Tibetan Buddhist monks at Larung Gar engage in unique forms of learning and expression, including debate, chanting, and traditional ceremonies.

Monastic Debates: Held regularly in the open, the debates are a lively part of Buddhist education, with monks using gestures to illustrate points on Buddhist philosophy.

Prayer and Chanting Ceremonies: Visitors can attend chanting sessions where monks and nuns gather for collective prayers, creating a mesmerizing atmosphere.

Special Events: Major Tibetan Buddhist festivals and ceremonies, such as Losar (Tibetan New Year) and Saga Dawa (celebrating Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and death), attract large gatherings of monks and pilgrims.

Cultural Immersion with Tibetan Pilgrims and Local Life

Sêrtar is a significant pilgrimage site for Tibetan Buddhists. The area is bustling with Tibetan pilgrims who travel to pay homage, making it an ideal place to witness Tibetan traditions and rituals.

Pilgrimage Activities: Pilgrims engage in koras, or ritual circumambulations, around temples and stupas, which visitors can join to better understand Tibetan spiritual practices.

Local Tibetan Market: Sêrtar has small markets where locals sell Tibetan artifacts, prayer beads, traditional clothing, and handmade crafts, offering insight into Tibetan material culture.

Engagement with Locals: Tibetan pilgrims and residents are often welcoming to respectful visitors and are open to sharing stories, customs, and insights into their faith and lifestyle.

Tips for Visiting Sêrtar County

1. Best Time to Visit: The ideal time to visit Sêrtar is between May and October when temperatures are milder. Winters are extremely cold, with heavy snowfall and road closures common.
2. Altitude Considerations: Sêrtar is at a high altitude (around 4,000 meters or 13,000 feet). Visitors should allow time to acclimate, stay hydrated, and avoid strenuous activities initially to prevent altitude sickness.
3. Getting There: The journey to Sêrtar is long and challenging, often requiring a bus or car ride from Chengdu (around 14-16 hours) or from nearby towns in Garzê Prefecture. Road conditions vary, especially in winter.
4. Cultural Sensitivity: Visitors should show respect for Tibetan customs, especially in religious sites. Dress modestly, avoid loud behavior, and refrain from pointing at religious objects or photographing sky burials without permission.
5. Accommodation: Basic guesthouses are available, but accommodations are limited and can be very simple. It’s best to book in advance, especially during festival times.
6. Essentials to Pack: Warm clothing is essential, as temperatures fluctuate greatly, even in summer. Sunscreen, lip balm, and comfortable walking shoes are also recommended for high-altitude conditions.

Sêrtar County is a deeply spiritual destination, offering a rare view into Tibetan Buddhism’s practices and traditions. From the iconic Larung Gar Buddhist Academy with its sea of red monastic dwellings to the solemn rituals of sky burials, Sêrtar provides an unparalleled opportunity to experience Tibetan culture, faith, and breathtaking landscapes. While remote and challenging to reach, it is a rewarding journey for those interested in spiritual exploration and cultural immersion.