Nangchen ནང་ཆེན།

Nangchen County (囊谦县), also spelled Nangqên, is located in the Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Qinghai Province, China. This county is part of the traditional Tibetan region of Kham and is known for its stunning mountainous landscapes, rich Tibetan culture, and significant religious sites. Nangchen is characterized by its combination of traditional Tibetan lifestyle, beautiful monasteries, and unique natural scenery, making it a significant location in Tibetan Buddhism and Tibetan history.

The Nangchen royal family belonged to the Dru clan and ruled over a pastoral kingdom in eastern Tibet whose capital Jyekundo was one of the centers of trade in Kham. In 1240 the Mongol prince Godan Khan endowed a local monastery, Kumbum Monastery, which contained the reliquary of Tishri Repa Sherab Sengge, with an estate of tax-paying subjects and also sponsored the construction of Nangsochenmo Castle. A disciple of Tishri Repa called Trewo Alu became the secular leader of this region, soon to be called Nangchen after the castle. It was Trewo Alu’s son Chokyi Gyeltsen who became the first Nangchen king in 1300. Under Nangchen jurisdiction were twenty five autonomous tribes, including the Nangchen tribe itself, known as the twenty five tribes of Yushul.

High-Altitude Terrain: Nangchen sits at an altitude of around 3,800 meters (12,467 feet) and is surrounded by high mountains, which contribute to its scenic beauty and temperate climate.

Kham Tibetan Culture: Being part of Kham, Nangchen maintains its distinctive Tibetan dialect, customs, and traditions, making it an important region for exploring authentic Tibetan culture.

Religious and Spiritual Significance: Nangchen is home to a number of influential monasteries that belong to different schools of Tibetan Buddhism, including the Karma Kagyu, Nyingma, and Gelug traditions.

Tana Monastery

Tana Monastery is one of the most revered religious sites in Nangchen and is renowned for the only Yerpa surviving monastery, founded in 1189, and the one that became most influential monastery in Nangchen. (The famous 18th Century Terton Chokgyur Lingpa’s fascinating description of this monastery can be found below.)

Yeshe Yelpa was the primary teacher in the kingdom of Ling in the Kham region of Tibet, the home of the family of King Gesar of Ling. So, it was not surprising that shortly after Gesar’s death many of Gesar’s most valuable possessions, including his armor, sword and bow were offered to Yelpa Yeshe Tsekpa to be housed in the Tana Monastery. This monastery soon became the center of many Gesar-related activities. A number of precious antiquities that were part of the Gesar legacy were lost during the Cultural Revolution but many still remain at the refurbished Tana Monastery in Tibet, where they continue to be among the most revered treasures of Tibet today.

Nyala Amnye Sacred Mountain

Nyala Amnye is a sacred mountain in Nangchen, revered by Tibetan Buddhists and local pilgrims. Many locals undertake a kora (circumambulation) around the mountain as an act of devotion.

The mountain and surrounding valleys offer breathtaking landscapes and are rich in alpine flora, making it an excellent destination for hikers and photographers.

Surmang Monastery Complex

The Surmang monastery complex is one of the most important centers of the Karma Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, attracting monks and visitors from across the Tibetan Plateau.

Surmang Monastery was founded about 600 years ago by Trungmase, a student of Deshin Shekpa, the 5th Gyalwa Karmapa. The name in Tibetan means “many cornered” referring to the irregularly shaped reed huts used by the first monastics in the area.

Nangchen Nomadic Culture

The grasslands and mountain pastures around Nangchen are home to nomadic Tibetan communities that have herded yaks and sheep for generations.

Visitors can experience the traditional nomadic lifestyle, often staying with families in their tents or homes and learning about their unique herding practices and spiritual traditions.

Cultural Highlights

Tibetan Festivals: Local Tibetan festivals, such as Losar (Tibetan New Year), Saga Dawa (commemorating Buddha’s life), and various local monastery festivals, are celebrated with lively rituals, dances, and traditional attire.

Traditional Tibetan Arts: Nangchen is known for its thangka painting, wood carving, and other traditional Tibetan arts. Visitors can see artisans at work and purchase unique handcrafted souvenirs.

Buddhist Practices: Monasteries in Nangchen hold rituals, meditation sessions, and teachings that attract pilgrims. These monasteries are centers for studying Buddhist philosophy, sacred texts, and traditional medicine.

Practical Information for Visitors

1. Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Nangchen is during summer (June-August), when temperatures are mild, and the grasslands are lush and green. Autumn (September-October) offers clear skies and beautiful scenery as well.
2. Altitude Awareness: Nangchen’s high altitude requires visitors to be mindful of altitude sickness. Spending a few days acclimating is recommended, along with staying hydrated and avoiding strenuous activity until acclimated.
3. Getting There: Nangchen is remote, and access generally involves flying into Yushu Batang Airport and then taking a vehicle into the county. Roads can be rough, so it’s advisable to plan travel with a local tour operator familiar with the region.
4. Cultural Sensitivity: Nangchen’s Tibetan Buddhist culture values respect, especially around monasteries and religious ceremonies. Modest clothing, respectful behavior, and seeking permission for photography are appreciated.
5. Accommodations: While accommodations may be basic in some areas, Nangchen offers some guesthouses and homestays that provide insight into Tibetan culture and lifestyle.

Nangchen County is a culturally rich and scenic region that offers travelers a chance to experience Tibetan Buddhism, Kham Tibetan culture, and the natural beauty of the Tibetan Plateau. With its important monasteries, sacred mountains, and nomadic traditions, Nangchen is a unique destination for those seeking an immersive and respectful journey into traditional Tibetan life.